Kitchen Sink Installation Made Easy

Leaks around the sink rim can cause the countertops under the sink to start to swell. A bit of swelling is okay as it won’t interfere with a new sink installation. If, however, they get too swollen, they will interfere with the installation of a new kitchen sink. To overcome this problem, you will need to cut away some of the material with a circular saw or cutting torch in order to make space for new countertops. Take a look at the countertop surface around the sink. Examine for bulges or spots where the laminate has lifted away from the particleboard. Then examine below the sink for areas that are too spongy to hold sink clamps or support the sink itself. If you discover any of these difficulties, replace the countertop.

When you are trying to replace your kitchen sink, it is important that you use the right sealant for it to work properly. Plumber’s putty has long been the standard sink basket sealant and, in rare cases, sink rims. While a plumber’s putty works fine, it has a limited lifespan; it dries out, cracks, and leaks over time. Furthermore, it may harm some plastics, including those used to make sinks. Use silicone caulk to prevent leaks and disasters. Use a kitchen-and-bath silicone that must be cleaned with solvent. It is available at home centers. When you install the sink, apply a bead around the drain and around the disposer and basket strainer openings. Excess caulk should be removed with a damp cloth.

Corroded steel kitchen sink connection pipes are difficult to work with since the slip nuts are almost impossible to loosen or tighten. You can remove the rust with drain cleaners designed to break down rust. If that doesn’t work, a piece of plastic pipe can easily be inserted between those rusted old screws, making them easy to bypass.

If the slip nut on the drainpipe in the wall won’t budge, spray it with WD-40 and try a bigger wrench. If that doesn’t work, cut off the drainpipe with a hacksaw (save as much of the threaded section as you can). Then purchase a plastic trap adapter, a transition coupling, along with some PVC or ABS, and cement. Simply wrap the coupler around the other end of the pipe and over the steel drain pipe.

Check that the sink you choose has a matching number of holes to your needs. Most sinks in the market have three holes for the faucet and probably a fourth hole for an accessory. If you have more holes in your sink than there are connections for, this can lead to leaks. There should be the correct number of holes in the bottom of your mixer for it to fit correctly. Otherwise, you will need to use an adapter on some of them.

On the other hand, if your sink doesn’t have enough holes, there’s not much you can do, as you may find it almost impossible to cut extra holes in the cast iron or stainless steel material. To avoid this scenario, get your faucet and accessories first, then purchase a sink with holes that match them.

The last thing you should do before installing your new kitchen sink is to adjust the drain outlet. This is because the design of every single kitchen sink is different, and it comes down to how close or far away from the wall your current drain sits. If it happens to be too close, you will need to extend it by putting a rubber gasket around it.

If the drain outlet previously in place is not low enough to accommodate the depth of the new sink, you will need to open the wall and lower the position of the sanitary tee that connects to the drain pipe in the wall. This can be a complex job that may require professional assistance. That is so because it needs cutting away of the back of the cabinet and the wall surface.

As you prepare for the next step, go ahead and take out the old sink and install the new sink on the countertop. This should be straightforward.

Once you have your new kitchen sink in place, all that is left to do is to put everything back together. You will need to reattach the water supply, reinstall your drains and pipe, and finally connect your faucet.

But first, you should start with the garbage disposal installation on the preferred side of the sink since it takes up the most space. Once that is done, install the strainer on the left over space. You may now install any other under-sink fixtures and additions like your hot water dispenser or water filter.

The drain tailpiece is actually a short, vertical straight pipe that links the sink strainer to a tee fitting. The outlet that’s placed on the side of the tee fitting lets in the waste pipe emanating from the other sink basin or the garbage disposal, while the outlet that’s on the bottom goes on to the trap of your drain.

Temporarily secure the tailpiece to the sink strainer. Connect the arched end of the waste pipe directly to the drain outlet of your garbage disposal using a washer and slip nut. Allow the uncurved end of the pipe to continue past the upright tailpiece that’s located on the sink basin.

Cut the tailpiece and continuous waste pipe to length with a PVC tubing cutter, then keep the tee fitting up to the tailpiece and waste pipe and jot down cutting lines on your pipes exactly where they will glide into the tee fitting. Now, using a PVC tubing cutter, trim the tailpiece and continuous waste pipe according to the required length.

Reassemble the tailpiece and continuous waste pipe, as well as the tee, leaving them hand-tight. Make any necessary adjustments. Fasten the slip nuts just enough with channel-type pliers.

A J-shaped trap arm and a U-shaped trap bend make up the drain trap assembly. The tailpiece tee fitting has a bottom that contains the trap bend, which fits over it, and an upper portion that draws out into the drain outlet in the wall.

To assemble the trap arm and trap bend, use a washer and a slip nut. Place a slip nut and washer on the straight end of the trap arm. While pushing the trap bend into the tee fitting right on the tailpiece, allow the trap arm to lock right into your drain outlet that’s located right on the wall.

To establish the most direct route from the sink to the drain outlet, adjust the trap components as required. Make sure there is a small downward slope on the trap arm toward the drain outlet.

Cut the trap arm if it is too long to fit in the location. Then reattach the P-trap assembly. All slip nuts should be tightened using channel-type pliers. Don’t forget to check for leaks.